It's How You Cut It

Growing up my mother and I would make homemade pasta on a regular basis. Sometimes we used a small hand cranked tabletop machine and other times we rolled out the dough using an unusually large rolling pin and cut strips of fettuccine noodles with a knife. The hand rolled and cut version always tasted better--though I didn’t know why. Nor did I understand why tearing fresh herbs always seem more flavorful than cutting them or for that matter why splitting an English muffin with my fingers tasted better than when I cut it open with a knife. I do now.

I’ve come to understand that it’s the imperfections that make all the difference: butter gets stuck in the nooks of the English muffin, tears in herbs release the flavor more intensely and pasta tastes better when it’s naturally uneven and its thickness is irregular.

How something is cut is of great importance in food preparation and the success of any dish. Anyone who has ever bit into a large slice of a sun dried tomato will immediately know that it’s far too intense--a little sliver is all you need. The opposite is true for mushrooms--cut them too small and they disappear. How something is cut is especially important with pasta. This is why we have so many varieties. Matching the right pasta with the right sauce is an art that makes or breaks a dish. Serve a dish of angel hair with a heavy alfredo sauce and it will soon look and taste like one big lump, or rigatoni with an oil and garlic sauce will taste like you’re eating oily starch. Serve angel hair with a sauté of fresh chopped grape or cherry tomatoes and torn pieces of just picked basil and you’ll think you are eating the food of the angels.

As a professional chef I’ve come to understand more and more that how something is cut makes a huge difference. Most of the time, the decision on how I want a particular ingredient cut is a thought out process---which is why any good recipe will specify this. At other times I find this out by pure instinct--as is the case with my chicken salad. I tear it instead of dicing or cutting it in any way. This will produce the same imperfections that make tearing an English muffin so good. Try it and you won’t believe what an amazing difference this small change will make. The other day, even my kitchen adverse daughter noticed this when she brought home some chicken salad from Whole Foods that was torn. She was so excited to have more that we walked over 14 New York City blocks (in high heels) just get some--funny that she didn’t take notice when I instructed her to do this years ago, hut one taste did the trick!

So let’s celebrate the imperfections in everything and realize that it’s these very “flaws” that makes all the wonderful, delicious difference.

 

Shredded Mint/tarragon Pesto Chicken

Shredded Chicken Salad with Mint/Tarragon Pesto Mayonnaise

 

This is chicken salad at its best; shredded and coated with a perfect balance of mayonnaise and pesto (and not the usual kind—though any pesto will work) and accented with a dash of red grape tomatoes. Serve it in a sandwich or put a scoop of it over some fresh greens, tossed in a simple vinaigrette.

2 boneless chicken breasts

1 cup grape tomatoes (sliced lengthwise)

½ cup mayonnaise

½ cup pesto

Mint/Tarragon Pesto

Makes about 1 cup 



1 cup tarragon leaves, loosely packed


1 cup mint leaves, loosely packed


½ cup extra virgin olive oil *


½ cup pine nuts (or walnut)

2 medium cloves garlic 


1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

Salt and pepper to taste



Put the herbs, oil, nuts, and garlic in the work bowl of a food processor and process until smooth. Pour the sauce into a bowl, stir in the cheese, and season. (Be careful with the salt since the Parmesan is salty).  Mix with the mayonnaise.

In the meantime, bake the chicken (after seasoning it on both sides with salt and pepper) uncovered, in a 350 degree oven for about 30 minutes or until the center is opaque. Remove from the oven and let it cool in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes or until it’s cool enough to handle. In a large bowl, shred it into thin pieces about 2 inches long along the grain of the chicken. It will shred easily. Toss with the pesto/mayonnaise, add the tomatoes and serve over your favorite greens or with crusty bread. 

Make Big Batches

Cooking is always easier when you use seasonal ingredients and make a recipe in big batches when appropriate. It takes the same amount of effort to make more, as it does to make less. So for instance, if you’re making a tomato sauce, double or triple the recipe and freeze what you don’t use. The same applies to dressing a salad—don’t make just enough for one salad, make a jar full. In the case of this month’s recipe, use whatever fresh herbs you have growing in your garden or find what’s especially appealing in the supermarket or farmer’s market. Buy them in big batches. Make a large container of pesto and keep a supply in the refrigerator and freeze the rest. Cooking becomes infinitely easier whenever you don’t have to make all parts of a recipe from scratch and instead, you can simply reach for your pre-made supplies. 

A Question of Balance

The reason why how ingredients are cut effect the taste of a recipe is in essence a question of balance—the parts need to be in harmony with the whole. And it’s this delicate balance that makes the difference in a recipe that works and one that doesn’t. This is also the essence for a life that works. Embrace your various parts. Be true and loving to the unique flavor of each and integrate them according to your unique rhythm, in harmony and balance to your whole being. 

The Art of Reinvention

re-in-vent
1.To create anew. 2. To bring back into existence; invent something again

I have had the privilege of reinventing myself many times; from fashion executive to grad student, stay-at-home mom, sales executive and of course chef and writer. Though some of these transformations where planned, others took me by surprise. At times I went along shamelessly, kicking and screaming. Now, in hindsight, it's easy to see how each experience was necessary, perfect for me really. Sometimes I look back on events that shaped my life and I'm wowed by the intricacy of it all. One small detail changed, and everything changes. This theme is a movie favorite, brilliantly portrayed in Back to the Future.

Being experienced as I am (hard knocks and all) reinventing myself is not so scary anymore--even when it takes me by surprise. Actually, it's exciting and I'm looking forward to some new adventures. I'll be sure to tell you in the months to come. The point is, I can honestly say I wouldn't change a thing--even when, at the time, I wished I could.

These are tough times for many of us. Many of our lives are being reinvented, along with the world around us. Though it may seem as if it's happening under duress, I believe it's under guiding hands. Honestly, aren't you tired of the old ways of doing things? They so obviously do not work. We're busted. The old game is up. So I say, yeah. I'm ready for a new game. I don't mind hanging tough while we create a new one, more suited to all our likings.

Everything gets reinvented when the game changes, most importantly, us. Those of you who may have lost your jobs, I know too well how hard it can be, but honestly, how many of you were happy in your old jobs? How many of you have held onto a dream for years, all of your life maybe, but never attempted to make it real? How many of you lost a job that long ago left you lifeless? Surprises truly are in our best interests if we choose to see them that way. Sometimes we can only get to the new, kicking and screaming.

Do whatever you need to do for yourself and your family in the meantime, but think of this as a gift. Now's your chance to reinvent yourself. Go job hunting in your mind first. Create though your heart. Let your inner guidance system show you the way and watch what begins to open up. The same intricacies that have always steered our way are still there. They work for us--especially when they're woven from the cords of our hearts desire. Go for it!

Did I mention that most cooks are naturally masters of reinvention? Yep, it's true. This is because we're always fussing with recipes, and recipes, by their very nature, are never static. They're always changing in one way or another. They're constantly evolving, mirroring a reflection of our changing tastes. Everyone always puts their individual stamp on everything they cook--even if they follow the recipe exactly. Why? Because, each and every one of us does each step of a recipe a little differently; how thin is thinly sliced; are you stirring with a wooden or metal spoon; what exactly is a pinch, and so on? And most importantly, how do we feel about what we're cooking and for whom? This invokes the power of intention--an essential ingredient in reinventing everything--not just food, but life itself. Spend time examining your intentions. Develop intention into an art form and someday it will make you so glad you lost your job.

All my best wishes at this time of new creations,
Chef Silvia

Wild Mushroom Risotto

You can make all kinds of risotto; seafood, saffron, vegetable, etc. The varieties are endless, just like pasta. What makes this risotto different, is that the mushrooms are not folded into the risotto, they are poured on top. I find this not only easier but also tastier. Furthermore it insures that every mushroom lover will get plenty of them without having to dig through their risotto. In over words, by cooking the risotto separately from the mushrooms, it allows you greater control over flavor and serving portions and what the diner wants in every bite
Wild Mushroom Risotto

This month's recipe is an old favorite
Which I of course reinvented.

Wild Mushrooms Risotto (feeds 4)

One-pound shitake, crimini and portobella mushrooms sliced
1 clove fresh garlic--finely chopped
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1/2 cup sun dried tomatoes sliced
Two tablespoons marsala wine (or white wine)
1/4 cup tomato sauce (see recipe below or add your own)
1/4 cup chicken broth
4 tablespoons olive oil
Salt & pepper to taste

In a large saute pan

Heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking.
Add mushrooms and cook until firm and golden (about 2 minutes)
Add garlic and cook for about 15 seconds (or just until golden) then add the wine. Cook for another 30 seconds, stirring and scraping up any bits of mushrooms stuck to the pan. Add tomato sauce, the broth and the sun dried tomatoes. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until the sauce thickens.

Note: If you would like a thicker sauce (more like a gravy) add a tablespoon of flour to the mushrooms just before adding the wine. Follow with the broth and the tomato sauce. If the sauce is too thick, just add a bit more broth.

Place a scoop of the risotto in the center of each plate and top with the mushrooms and
sauce

Risotto: cook 2 cups according to package directions, stirring in chicken broth a ladle at a time (waiting until the rice has absorbed the broth before adding the next ladle). Continue stirring and adding broth until the rice is cooked but still firm. Remember that the rice will continue to cook even after you have turned off the heat so make sure it is somewhat underdone so that it will be perfect once it’s served. Season with salt, pepper, and grated parmesan cheese to taste. Add some chopped fresh parsley for color and taste.

Perfect Basic Tomato Sauce



1 can crushed tomatoes (one with no added garlic or herbs) *

2 tablespoons olive oil (or enough to just cover the bottom of the pan
1 clove fresh garlic--finely chopped

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 chicken broth
 (this is optional, however it adds flavor and liquid to a sauce that may be too thick.
1 sprig of fresh basil (one with multiple attached leaves) or parsley

Salt and pepper to taste



In a medium saucepan over medium heat add oil and heat until hot but not smoking. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook for about 30 seconds or until golden. Follow quickly with the tomatoes and then the broth. Add the basil, lower the heat and simmer for at least 30 minutes until the sauce is cooked (no raw tomato taste) and sweet. 



*Note: Experiment with different brands of crushed tomatoes. Try ones that have no added puree, garlic or herbs. These will change the taste of purely delicious tomatoes. It is best to add these fresh when you make the sauce. 

Use this sauce in every dish that calls for a tomato sauce. Use it over pasta of course or make it in a large sauté pan and use it as the foundation for poaching a filet of fish, shrimp, chicken, or other meat or even eggs and you have a low fat, delicious dish that is so satisfying and always open to variations. 


Risotto

Risotto is one of the easiest dishes to make and one of the easiest to mess up. Why? Because most people tend to overcook it--they forget that just like pasta, or meat, or anything hot, it will keep cooking even after they've removed it from the heat. So what you need to do is take it off the heat while the rice is still a bit firm (not hard so you break you teeth on it) just cooked but firm. Check the seasoning just before serving. Give it a few stirs and it will be perfect.